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Chef Steph serves up tradition and culture with her Indigenous recipes

'A lot of what I do, and my strength comes from our people'
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Red-seal chef Steph Baryluk, originally from Fort McPherson, is the recipe creator and cultural educator of the Rooted program offered at Simon Fraser University in B.C. Incorporating traditional Indigenous foods into her recipes is a way to stay connected to her culture, she says. Photo courtesy of Steph Baryluk

From her Gwichin familys kitchen in Fort McPherson, Steph Baryluk grew up learning how food was central in creating a positive atmosphere.

Throughout my upbringing, I got to see some very important parts of tradition, culture and community. And something that was happening in my home was that my dad was out harvesting and then my mom would be processing.

So this is all the things that were happening throughout my life. At the time, it was just a part of who we were. We hunted and fished and spent that time on the land as a family, Baryluk said.

In her grandmothers home next door, she said almost anyone who came to her doorstep was welcomed with nourishment.

She would have something ready to cook or she would already be cooking. Entering Jijuus (her grandmothers) home or my moms home, very quickly, they're going to serve you something they made, and I think that became part of who I am as well.

Seeking reconnection

Once Baryluk finished high school and made her way into the world away from all things familiar, she said she felt a disconnect from the comfort of her culture and traditional food.

I think for Indigenous students or young people, it's hard to kind of step out of that to pursue education. You're trying to find your way in life, she said.

So, career-wise, I tried different things, which ultimately led me to culinary because I was at a point in my life where I needed to do something that I enjoyed. And once I started cooking, I started to build that connection back to my culture.

Now, a decade later, Baryluk is a red-seal chef.

Ingredients for success

While she started out in the culinary field working in camps, restaurants, hotels, and seniors homes, several years ago she had the opportunity to create an Indigenous food program through Simon Fraser University (SFU) in Burnaby, B.C.

That was my first step, so I created the program, she said.

She now lives in Tsawwassen, B.C., but she is closer than ever to her 窪蹋勛圖厙 roots because she has since incorporated the familiarity of traditional foods into her dishes.

Sourcing the ingredients from reputable suppliers means she can procure such foods as elk, moose, rabbit or salmon.

She also builds on her creations by using traditional plants that are part of Indigenous culture, such as dried sweetgrass, cedar and spruce tips.

All of a sudden, we had 16 recipes for this institution. It just took off, she said of the popularity of the program, named Rooted. A year and a half later, they launched Rooted Catering as well, she added.

International flavour

Baryluk has since been preparing many dinners, including a special menu for the NWT Culinary Festival held in Yellowknife in July.

Her work has taken her to Texas, which she described as super, super cool, and she also travelled to Rome, Italy, where she prepared a reception for hundreds of people.

Everything I do, at almost every event, or every talk I do, someone reaches out to me. They are appreciating that Indigenous food is being served. Or maybe its a non-Indigenous person who is thanking me for that little bit of education into Indigenous cuisine.

There has been so much positive feedback, she said.

Meaningful connections

Baryluk said several highlights of her work stand out in a very positive and meaningful way.

We held a big event at SFU and I have maybe nine dishes throughout the whole dining commons. And there was one Indigenous student who approached me, and she was so emotional. She's studying at SFU, she's away from her home territory. She appreciated so much that her food was being served.

And that's exactly what I'm trying to do.

Another such instance occurred when she was in Europe.

I was in Italy, serving the food and a young gentleman came up to me and he said mahsi cho and in our language that means thank you.

So, right away, I lifted my head, and he said, I'm from Alaska and my friend is Gwichin. And he always says mahsi cho. So, there are two examples of these younger, Indigenous people... seeing their Indigenous food being served. So this is so much wider than me or chef stuff. This is for our people. she said of the impact serving traditional food can have on people.

I received a call from a few Elders in my community who were so proud that their food was being served.

Red-seal role model

And I think that's my goal in this, is just to empower our people. But as an Indigenous woman, I enjoy just telling our stories as I do this, she said of her ability to create the menus that represent her people.

Baryluk said she encourages others to fulfill their dreams, despite challenges they may encounter.

As an Indigenous person, as a very young person, there were barriers already. But we are very resilient, we are very strong. And a lot of what I do, and my strength comes from our people all my Elders, my parents James and Mary Ross.

I am representing so much more than just myself.





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